US Travel Guide - Aspen

Aspen Entertainment

If you really want to blend into Aspens local scene, then look past the trend seekers decked out in the latest Brioni fashion or the yuppies clad in Polo Sport gear speeding around downtown in a custom Porsche, and head to the slopes. Skiing reigns supreme. Even Ski Magazine continually ranks Aspen as a top five North American resort. You are constantly reminded of the sport, with all the ski shops around town, and, of course, the slopes of Ajax Mountain literally serving as the towns backyard.

But there is more to Aspen than skiing, gossip, fashion hunting and plastic surgery. Once the snow melts and the mud dries, the valley becomes a mecca for outdoor activities. From biking and hiking to camping and fishing, the mountains surrounding Aspen offer endless ways to spend the lazy days of summer. Tourists also fill the town in summer for an array of festivals, and Aspens cultural side has things to keep you entertained year round. But without the four ski mountains attracting millions of visitors each year, Aspen would probably still have more horses than people. So here is a quick look at the slopes.

Ajax (Aspen Mountain) - The original ski mountain, carved out by former members of the 10th Mountain military ski division, presents some of the most challenging terrain in the state. If you are putting on sticks (skis) for the first time or are still in the beginning phases of learning, go somewhere else, because these trails are unforgiving. And why take the chance of busting a few bones on the steeps, when you can head over to one of the other mountains and hone your skills. Out of Ajaxs 76 trails, 65 percent fall into the advanced or expert category. That means there are double black diamonds everywhere. On the west side of the mountain you'll find some intermediate trails (i.e. Blues), but only a few like Roach Run and International are cruisers. If you want big bumps, almost every steep has them, and the tree skiing is awesome. But if you want to bring your snowboard along, forget it. Ajax is the only mountain that is skier exclusive.

Aspen Highland - Although developers keep chipping away at Aspen Highlands throwback appeal, the area is still a major draw for backcountry and telemark enthusiasts looking for lots of trees and steeps. And you'll find plenty of Vertical rise in the Highland Bowl. The 112 trails have terrain suitable for all skill levels, but if you're looking for the cruisers (minus the Greens), you might choose another mountain, because these slopes are loaded with bumps. You'll constantly hear the locals talking up this mountain.

Buttermilk - Okay, so you're not exactly an expert and every attempt at a snow plow winds up with a face plant. Well, Buttermilk has one of the most extensive and thorough ski schools around and after a three to four day training session, you'll be cruising the Blues. This is also the place to bring the kids. The wee ones have their own lift and hill, and they can carve down the slopes with Max the Moose, a big purple thing that the kids love. Out of the 43 trails, almost 75 percent are in the beginner and intermediate range.

Snowmass - Locals tend to avoid this mountain because of the tourist crowds, and for the fact that it has a reputation as the cruiser mountain (meaning it lacks moguls). But Snowmass, the largest of the four Aspen mountains, boasts incredibly diverse terrain. Beginners may be out of luck (only 7% of the 83 trails are greens), but intermediate and advanced skill levels will have a heyday. You'll also find some serious vertical craziness like the double black steeps off the Black Burn lift. Rubber knee skiers will dig the big bumps on Wildcat. Three terrain parks keep the snowboarders happy.

Sunlight - If the lift prices in Aspen scare you off, do what a good deal of the locals living paycheck to paycheck do: head to Sunlight. Located 40 miles outside of Aspen the terrain is 75% percent beginner/intermediate, but the $32 lift ticket is the cheapest around.

Other winter activities include dog sled rides and ice-skating. The Aspen/Snowmass Nordic Trails System offers free cross skiing. You have access to more then 50 miles of groomed trails. Trail maps are available in the local ski shops and at the Aspen Visitors Center. The Ashcroft Ski Touring Center also has groomed trails, and after cross-country skiing you can refuel at the nearby Pine Creek Cookhouse. Although most locals despise the activity, snowmobile rides are also available in the area. Or, you can just slide into a pair of snowshoes and get a new perspective on hiking.

When the seasons change and the weather heats up, Aspen and the Roaring Fork valley transform into a summer playground. Campgrounds fill up with RVs and car campers, and tourists flood the town for the music and foods festivals. Fishermen wade into the Frying Pan and Roaring Fork Rivers gathering new fish tales, while rafters speed through the rapids. Mountain and road bikes adorn the top of sport utility vehicles, and the jet set begins to sweat (except for those opting for a game of high altitude golf on one of the area courses).

A myriad of hiking trails vein up the local mountains, and many are easily accessible from downtown. Both the Ute Trial and the Aspen Mountain Trail climb Ajax and reward you with views of the town and surrounding valley. The Rio Grande Trail runs through lower downtown along the Roaring Fork River and heads Downvalley. It is an easy alternative to trails that require a bit of work climbing. If you want to hike with the locals, head over to the Smuggler Road Trail, a relatively easy 1,000-foot ascent on a dirt road to a sundeck overlooking downtown.

More experienced hikers can trek the endless trail system in the surrounding wilderness areas. For a real challenge, you can set off on an expedition to summit one of the 14,000-foot peaks (fourteeners) towering above the valley, including Maroon Bells, Pyramid Peak and Snowmass Mountain.

If you didn't bring your bike to Aspen, you can rent one at a number of area shops. Mountain bikers have a number of trail options for all skill levels. Technical nuts and gonzo riders can take on the Government Trial or hop the ski lift to the top of Snowmass and shoot down the hill. Those who prefer to take it easy can pedal along the Rio Grande trial and the Lincoln Creek road, which accesses a four-wheel drive road which ascends to the Ruby ghost town. Guided bike tours are available, and you can even hire a company to take you up to Maroon Lake so you only have to ride down. Road bikers can test their lungs on Independence Pass or ride up Maroon Creek Road for a look at Colorados most photographed mountains, Maroon Bells.

A hot air balloon ride is a great way to see the valley, and jeep tours are available for those looking for a bumpy thrill. There is even a full-blown skate park in Rio Grande Park.

On days when you're not bonding with nature, you can check out Aspens thinking side. A plethora of galleries in the downtown area display everything from modern art to decorative art. The Aspen Art Museum
, located in an old hydroelectric plant in lower downtown, hosts rotating exhibitions from established contemporary artists. The museum also offers classes for aspiring painters. During the summer you can catch a number of plays and musicals at Theater in the Park, and the Aspen Stage group presents staged reading of original work at a number of area venues. And you can always deck the fancy duds for a night at the opera when productions are running at the Wheeler Opera House. The Crystal Palace is the place to go for a bit of comic relief. You can sample gourmet dinner while you watch a stage show of biting political satire. History buffs will enjoy exploring how life was in the Victorian age at the Wheeler/Stallard Hose Museum.

Festivalgoers will find something going on in Aspen at all times of the year. During the height of ski season, the worlds best comedians converge on the town for a laugh-a-thon like no other at the US Comedy Arts Festival. Summer brings the Aspen Music Festival to the town. This celebration of classical music spans nine weeks and most concerts, which consist of student and professional musicians, takes place in the famed Music Tent. The Aspen Ballet hosts the Aspen Dance Festival during July and August of each year. This festival of movement invites dance troupes from across the nation to present productions on everything from ballet to flamenco. The renowned Food & Wine Festival brings together sommeliers, superstar chefs, vintners and gastronomy aficionados for a food fete in the spring. What started as a small event to attract people to town in the off-season has blossomed into one of the food worlds premier events.

Perhaps the most popular festival is Jazz Aspen at Snowmass. Over Labor Day, some of the biggest names in jazz, rock, blues and reggae perform at the base of the Snowmass slopes. Tickets go fast and hotel rooms are impossible to find, so make sure you reserve well in advance. In the fall, the Aspen Filmfest takes place, bringing out the celebrities. More than 100 independent films, shorts and documentaries roll on area movie screens.

If you still cannot find anything to do, or if the slopes are closed and there are no festivals in town, you can always catch the latest feature film at the historic Isis Theater.

T. Turner