Montpellier Dining and Entertainment

Montpellier
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Dining in Montpellier

With a long history, yet young population, Montpelliers bars and restaurants vary in mood and setting. Choose between appetising local specialities, or if you prefer, Italian, Spanish, Moroccan, and Mediterranean cuisine, which are all particularly well represented here.

If you're tempted by local specialities (goats or sheeps cheese, cold cuts, shellfish, olives & chestnuts), the Maison de la Lozère is great for rural produce and the Bonne Bouille, for fish.

Lovers of Italian food will appreciate the high class Verdi, Pizza Pizzeta, Pizzeria Sicilia, and the little Maramao. Tapas fans should try La Cueva or La Fuente.

The best of Arabian cuisine is also on offer: try couscous & tajines at Kasbah, Palmier, Regency, Jardins de Marrakech. Cèdres du Liban and Al Manara are a good spots for Lebanese cuisine.

If you're after a snack, other establishments are both easy and cost-efficient: the Pita Grecque (good sandwiches), the Petit ogre, Botan Kebab, the Le Fil (a lively bar), the Aligot (particularly weekday lunchtimes)... The citys tea rooms offer a pleasant change of scene: try Simple Simon or L'Heure Bleue.

The large student population (a quarter of its habitants, i.e. 65,000) gather, especially on Wednesdays and Thursdays, in all its different bars, open until one o'clock (2 o'clock in summer). Theres bodega at the Toro Loco, games at the Rebuffy, electronic music at Next and l'Antidote, themed evenings at l'Odyssée. Serious party-goers meet at Macadam.

Aesthetes will love the towns beautiful squares, and their vestiges of ancient chapels and churches, now destroyed. The Place de la Chapelle Neuve, is home to Chez Marceau, a bistro-style restaurant, and the Vieil Ecu. If you find yourself on Place Candolle check out the friendly Roule Ma Poule. Aperitifs at La Place or tapas at Pépé Carvalho are the order of the day in the charming Place Saint Ravy, with its beautiful fountain. On the squares near Saint Roch, there are a reasonably priced Mediterranean restaurant, La Posada, and the slightly more stylish Sisters Café. In the Place du Marché aux fleurs you will love the fresh cuisine at Saleya and the popular bar des Capucins.

You should also explore the original establishments that nestle in the citys suburbs: specialities from North Africa at Caféteria Boutonnet in Boutonnet; organic food at Quatres Saisons in the Beaux-Arts quarter; more African cuisine at Maquis in rue de la Méditerrannée; the excellent Chinese Cheng Du, specialities from the mountains at the Grenier Savoyard. Figuerolles/Plan Cabanes is also worth a visit. Theres the cheap, oriental Mac Khalid; the exotic Port Salengro or the endless pizzas at Repalatin.

Don't forget that the city extends to the banks of the river Lez (Antigone) and to the sea (Port Mariane) where you can also find luxurious restaurants like the Chandelier and Fabrice Guilleux and popular spots like Valli ou L'Assiette au Boeuf.

Take a trip off the beaten track to some great restaurants on the littoral (at Sète or close to the Etang de Thau for seafood & shellfish) and good inns that are typical of the garrigues region: Chez la Tchèpe, Pressoir de Saint Saturnin.

Entertainment in Montpellier

Montpelliers constant stream of newcomers soon discover that theres plenty to see and do in this young, cosmopolitan, university city: it has something for everyone, for all age groups and at all kinds of prices. Not only has the city much to offer culturally - reflected in the excellent choice provided by its theatres, cinemas and galleries - party animals will welcome the citys dynamic nightlife, and walking enthusiasts will enjoy Montpelliers superb location, just a short distance from the coast and mountains.

Museums and galleries

Culture lovers will enjoy the citys wealth of art, in particular the fine collection of European paintings (from Renaissance times to the 20th century) on show in the Musée Fabre, the forever changing and totally captivating exhibitions held in the Galerie Photo de l'Esplanade, the Carré Saint-Annes display of contemporary art, or the artwork on show in the Galerie d'art Trintignan. Open to all, the Musée Agropolis retraces the evolution of farming and the food processing industry worldwide and looks into their future. Those interested in local history should make a beeline for the Musée Languedocien, which has magnificent antique and medieval collections, as well as the Vieux Montpellier museum for its antique objects and furniture.

Cinemas and theatres

Film buffs will find that Montpellier is well catered for cinema-wise with two huge multi-plexes: the Méga CGR and the Gaumont Multiplexe, both of which are situated on the outskirts of the city. Art-house cinema doesn't do badly either with the citys four Diagonal film theatres screening films in their original languages.

As far as theatre is concerned, there are many different kinds to suit all ages. Small children will adore the shows put on in the Petit Théâtre de la mer, a small theatre situated in the seaside town of Palavas, just 8km from Montpellier. Adults will enjoy the performances in La Paillades Théâtre Jean-Vilar on the outskirts of Montpellier, the season at the Théâtre Moliéres in nearby Sète, the programme in Clermont-l'Héraults Théâtre Municipal or the Théâtre Lakanal des Beaux-arts' offerings. These theatres offer a wide range of plays performed by highly-acclaimed local, national and international theatre companies.

Bars and clubs

There are loads of bars to choose from for a pre-theatre drink, sitting out on the terrace or ensconced in unique surroundings that give each bar its own particular charm. In Fitzpatricks - a typically Irish pub - you can enjoy a pint of draught beer in pleasant surroundings. Fun too are the theme evenings organized in the Fil and the Inédit. If sitting out on the terrace is more your scene, head for Roule Ma Poule or the La Place bar, both of which overlook two of the citys prettiest squares. Once the evenings in full swing, a young, student crowd meets up in the Macadam Pub or the Odyssée, while those of more mature years tend to favour the cosier, more intimate surroundings of the Circus or the Comptoir.

For jazz fans, the best bet is the Jam, while blues features in the Cargo. Antirouille is the place to go to for world and popular French music, and if you like your music mega-loud, you can get an earful in the Salle Victoire 2 in Saint Jean de Védas or the Rockstore in town, also run as a nightclub.

A number of nightclubs, most of them situated along the coastline near beach resorts, let clubbers in for free: theres Matchico (varied clientele and music), Pulp (great interior design), Villa Rouge (techno music, gay and hetero clientele), Souleil Galerie (the bronzed hordes' favourite!) and Cyrano too for those die-hard clubbers among you!

Walks

As well as taking in the citys cultural treasures and enjoying its lively nightlife, trips to the seashore and walking in the area will do you a world of good. Montpellier is just 8km from the sea (Palavas, La Grande Motte being just two of several nearby seaside resorts...) and 30km or so from the Cévennes, where you can try your hand at activities such as canoeing, rock climbing... Blow away those cobwebs and have a complete change of scene by taking off into the garrigue, or wild moorland to visit charming little villages like Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert, caves (such as the Grotte des Demoiselles or the Grotte de Clamouse) and natural cirques such as the Cirque de Mourèze and the Cirque de Navacelles. Venture that little bit further and the Haut Languedoc national park has many more surprises in store.

Recommended Tours

The best starting point for these tours is Place de la Comédie, the very heart of the city. Laid out in the 18th century with the magnificent Opéra Comédie theatre - an exact copy of Paris' opera house - on your left and the fountain of the Three Graces in the centre, this wide open space is a naturally popular meeting place where people are always coming and going. Now pedestrianized, the square is also known as 'place de l'uf' (Egg square) because of the curved shape of the road that previously went through the square, which was particularly busy with heavy traffic up until the mid-1980s.
A walk up Rue de la Loge will take you to the historic town centre - a largely pedestrianized area - also referred to as the 'Ecusson' or 'shield' because of its shape, which means you can stroll at your leisure, far from the noise of the traffic, through streets that have held onto their charm. On the other hand, should you choose to go to the far side of the square on the right and through the Polygone shopping centre, you'll discover another facet of the city: its modern, residential areas.

The historic town centre

The best way to get to Montpelliers historic town centre from Place de la Comédie, is to take one of the citys busiest shopping streets, Rue de la Loge, which has boutiques such as Chapellerie Alfred, and from which you'll be able to climb up onto the Clapas, the old Occitan name for the town, which means "little pile of stones". On the right, halfway along this street, marble-covered Jean Jaurès square and its many bars with terraces, are, once night falls, a favourite spot for young students out to enjoy themselves. Le Next bar is a well-known student haunt. Meanwhile on your left, the Halles Castellane, where the colourful Halles aux Fleurs market takes place, will accommodate a new shopping centre due to open in June 2001.

At the end of Rue de la Loge, after Place des Martyrs de la Résistance in which the citys prefecture is situated, turn right into tiny, but very pretty, Place Chabaneau, taking note of the Hôtel de Ganges, which is one of the many town houses built between the 17th and 18th centuries. From here, taking Rue du Palais des Guilhem on the left (named after a dynasty that brought prosperity to Montpellier from the moment it was founded, around 1000 A.D.), at 1, Rue de la Barralerie, you come to the
Mikve, the oldest Jewish baths in Europe, which date from the 12th century (visits can be arranged through the Tourist Office.) A little further on, stopping for a drink in Antidote Café in Place de la Canourgue - one of Montpelliers most beautiful and authentic squares, paved throughout and decorated with little gardens - might not be a bad idea.

At the far side of Place de la Canourgue, pause for a moment in front of the fine 18th century Richer de Bellreview town house to enjoy the unrestricted view of imposing Saint Pierre Cathedral, built in the 14th century. Go down Rue Sainte Croix and Rue Saint Pierre to get to the cathedral, and you come to its large square and vast entrance; the two huge columns are the outstanding features of the only church in Montpellier to have survived the wars of religion. (The church was, furthermore, restored in the 17th century.) Running on from here is the former Benedictine monastery taken over by the Faculty of Medicine, which was founded in 1289 and has the distinction of being one of Europes oldest.

Walk up Rue de l'Ecole de Médecine and cross Boulevard Henri IV and the enchanting fragrances and greenery that abound in the restful Jardin des Plantes beckon, inviting you to wander through its flowers, bamboo and tropical rain forest. Initiated by Henri IV in 1593, this is one of Frances oldest botanical gardens. From here, going back up Boulevard Henri IV on the right, you come to the pleasant Promenade du Peyrou, an esplanade marked by two statues of roaring lions. This former corn-threshing site became, in the 18th century, a place much coveted by royalty and is graced by a statue of Louis XIV. From this high point, theres a wonderful view: on one side the Larzac plateau, the Cévennes and Saint Loup Peak, while on the other, even the sea is visible on a clear day. At the end of the walk is an unusual-looking water tower whose reservoir is an extension of the les Arceaux aqueduct, where a great organic market takes place on Tuesdays and Saturdays. Taking a walk here (depending on the time of the day), also provides the opportunity of sampling some of the seafood specialities available in La Bonne Bouille restaurant.

Going back towards the heart of the city by Rue Foch, you pass close to the Arc de Triomphe, erected in 1691 in honour of Louis XIV. On the left stands the former Palais de Justice (Law Courts), built in a neoclassical style on the site of a former castle. Finally, the visit finishes off on an artistic note. Take Rue du Petit Scel on the right, which leads to illuminated
Carré Sainte Anne, a former church and a superb exhibition space, which nowadays houses a contemporary art gallery.

From Antigone to the banks of the Lez

Filled with offices and housing, the Antigone district was designed in 1979 by Catalonian architect Ricardo Bofill. This place, which for some looks like a film set, brings together a number of architectural influences: its classical but it incorporates the urban style of 20th century totalitarian countries such as the USSR and other former Eastern bloc countries. These colossal buildings are painted in quite light, uniform colours, and Antigone is oriented towards the Mediterranean.

Once you've gone through the Polygone shopping centre, made up of a large number of shops spread over three levels, you come out onto Place du Nombre d'Or, which provides a huge vista dotted with trees, with, in the distance, Regional Council headquarters.

From here theres a succession of squares that lead from one to the other: first of all theres Place du Millénaire, which is calm and like a pedestrian precinct, and then you go under the arch on which the luxury restaurant Chandelier is situated. Once you've crossed Place de Thessalie, you find yourself directly opposite two buildings designed to improve living standards in the area: the Olympic-sized swimming pool and the new main library.

Keep going and you come back to the huge amphitheatre of the Esplanade de l'Europe, a strange, shell-like space of impressive size. Then, walking past the many bars and restaurants situated here (such as the Valli and El Cuba Café...), you see a building made entirely of glass - the Regional Council headquarters and its fountain. You'll now find yourself on the banks of the Lez.

F. Hugot