Barcelona Dining and Entertainment

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Barcelona

Dining in Barcelona

Barcelonas varied gastronomy springs from the geographical diversity of Catalonia and from its many European and Mediterranean influences, notably French and Italian. Fruit, vegetables and seafood feature prominently, as do pork and veal.

Catalans like to eat 'embutido' (continental sausage), and 'butifarra amb mongetes' (continental sausage with white beans) is one of the most common dishes. They also eat a lot of fish, prepared as dishes such as 'bacallà a la llauna' (cured cod prepared in a tin dish) and 'zarzuela'(a tasty mixture of fish and seafood). Though native to Barcelona, zarzuela can be found in restaurants all over Spain.

One of the most characteristic Catalonian dishes is 'la escudella', a type of Catalan 'cocido' (stew made with chick peas and meats) with butifarra and a giant meatball ('la pelota' the ball). They eat this dish at Christmas time, accompanied by immense pasta elbows called 'galets'. A Christmas dinner may well end with a Catalan custard topped with caramel, a must for those with a sweet tooth (and which you can also find in restaurants throughout Spain).

Lighter dishes are the 'escalibada' and 'esqueixada'. Both contain red pepper, the former with aubergines and onion, and the latter with cured cod. In season, you must try 'calçots', tender onions smeared with a delicious sauce and served on a ceramic tile. You usually follow this with a braised meat dish, the combination of the two being called 'calçotada'. The best way to try the complete dish is by going to a restaurant on one of the many 'masías' (farms) on the outskirts of the city. Light or heavy, dishes in Catalonia are accompanied by 'pan con tomate', excellent local bread smeared liberally with ripe tomato, olive oil and salt.

Catalonia is also well known for its sparkling wines (cavas) and white wines from the Penedés region. Quality red wines are now being produced, such as those from the Priorato region. There are eight brands (appellation d'origine) altogether, making it easy to find a local wine to accompany any dish. Alongside the traditional cuisine is a burgeoning international trend. In Barcelona, you can find anything from regional Spanish cuisine, to modern, experimental styles, to dishes from many other countries.

WHERE TO GO
Barcelona has many tapas bars serving traditional Spanish food such as 'pescaíto frito' (small deep-fried fish), 'patatas bravas' (potato chunks seasoned with chilli pepper sauce), battered and fried squid rings (a la romana) and fresh anchovy in vinegar. You usually have a tapa as an appetizer with beer, wine or vermouth, but you can also make a meal of a selection of tapas if you wish to try several different ones. Recently, restaurants serving a variety of tapas in an informal but pleasant setting have become popular in the Paseo de Gracia and Rambla Cataluña area. These include Tapa-tapa, Von-Till, Ciudad Condal or the chain Monchos. Los Toreros, beside las Ramblas (Les Rambles) in calle Xuclà, serves tapas in a taurine setting. Alongside the tapas bars are the ever-present Basque restaurants like the Zure Etxea, or Irati, the Galician restaurants in the old part of the city, such as the well-known Bar Celta with its traditional octopus dishes, and the sandwich bars for quick, economical meals.

The Barceloneta is the right area to go for a good rice dish. The damp, narrow streets of this popular area, with the sea behind it, is home to many economical restaurants where you could do no better than order a paella, a 'fideuà' (like paella but made with noodles instead of rice), a 'rossejat' of noodles, or 'arròs negre' (rice cooked in squid ink). Classical eateries include Can Ramonet o Salamanca and Set Portes, one of the oldest in the city that boasts the best rice dishes. For wines to accompany your meal, it is best to ask the chefs advice: depending on the place, the house wine may be the perfect choice.

Another place to go for seafood dishes is the Puerto Olímpico (Port Olímpic), packed with restaurants displaying fresh fish at the door. Some also have excellent sea views.

There are also restaurants like this in the Maremàgnum, a shopping centre by the sea. Las Ramblas (Les Rambles), leads into this area, after passing the Monument of Columbus (Monumento a Colón). Close to these restaurants, Ca l'Isidre, Botafumeiro and Casa Leopoldo are some of the traditional places known for good eating.

Entertainment in Barcelona

Barcelona welcomes foreign visitors from all over the world throughout the year. The city has become very fashionable, especially since the 1992 Olympics - the ideal showcase for Barcelona. First-time visitors have heard about the temperate climate, the city bathed by the Mediterranean that enjoys many hours of sunlight, the art and culture, and the agreeable people. The same can be applied to other parts of Spain, however in Barcelona they are complemented by things uniquely Catalonian, such as Gaudís works.

To get the feel of the city, it is best to start in the city centre and walk along the Paseo de Gracia (Passeig de Gràcia), to the Cataluña Square (Plaça de Catalunya) and Las Ramblas (Les Rambles). Before heading down Las Ramblas, stop at the Zurich, a local icon located near the entrance to one of the busiest underground stations and a well-known meeting place. In Las Ramblas make a stop for a quick coffee in El Café de l'Opera or turn left towards Petritxol or the Pi Square (Plaça del Pi) and order a hot chocolate for afternoon tea in one of the chocolate shop- cafés.

CULTURE
Lovers of art and culture cannot fail to visit the MNAC (Museo Nacional de Arte de Cataluña, or Catalonia National Art Museum), with its exhibits of Catalan Romanesque art, and the MACBA (Museo de Arte Contemporáneo de Barcelona, or Barcelona Museum of Contemporary Arts). Nearby are the traditional places to visit in the city: Picasso Museum (Museu Picasso), the Fundació Miró and Antoni Tàpies (the Miró and Tàpies Foundations). If we add to the visit the buildings most representative of Catalan Gothic style and Modernism, we will take with us a concise yet representative image of everything not to be missed in Barcelona: (Santa María del Mar, El Pi, the Casa Mila also known as the Pedrera, the Casa Batlló, Sagrada Familia, and Güell Park -Parc Güell-).

Along with art and culture we must include fun and entertainment. It is easy to enjoy yourself in Barcelona. The calendar of local 'fiestas' (holidays and festivities) is spread across the four seasons and adds a local touch to the already varied entertainments billed for the whole year. A wide offering of cinema, theatre, music and dance await the visitor. We must not leave out the 'fiesta' that occurs every night, especially from Thursday to Sunday, in the citys animated night spots.

NIGHT LIFE
It is not long since bars, pubs and discotheques across the country have shortened their opening hours. Nevertheless, there are still ways to be on the move from one place to another the whole night. Barcelonas nocturnal 'fiestas' have been moving towards the sea, especially in summer to the terraces of cafés and bars in the Puerto Olímpico (Port Olímpic) and Maremàgnum. Here you will find such a mix of places that within a few steps of each other you can hear salsa, rock and Spanish music.

DRINKS WITH A TASTE OF HISTORY
The city has other animated districts, like the Gótico (Gothic Quarter), the Born or the area of Gracia. In these places, the Catalans' imagination and flair for design combines with the weight of history to create charming bars and cafés that are a delight to the senses. These gathering places are interspersed among noisier ones like Karma, a local disco in Plaza Real that usually plays rock music. Also in Real Square (Plaça Reial) is Glaciar, very Modernist and a good place for the first drink after dinner. They play good music in the Malpaso and also hold art exhibitions. In the same area are Sidecar and the pubs in calle Escudellers that lead into the George Orwell Square (Plaza George Orwell), a place that used to be outside the popular zone but that is now habitually packed. Another charming place is El Ascensor, thoroughly Modernist from top to bottom.

EL BORNE
A visit to this district demands a walk along the Paseo del Borne (Passeig del Born) and the adjacent streets. Miramelindo is a good choice for a first drink, but there are plenty more including Salero where they serve dinner and Gimlet, a relaxing, intimate spot. A very special place is that occupied by the bars that overlook the church of Santa Maria del Mar, in one of the most affectionately-regarded squares of the city. It is beside the Pi Square (Plaça del Pi) and that of Sant Felip Neri, in the Gothic District (Barri Gótic). You can taste wines from all over the world in the Viña del Señor while contemplating the imposing beauty of the Gothic church. In the Born, stately homes above high arches alternate with peaceful restaurants and tapas bars like the Casa Vasca. It is worth having a look around here. It has become popular with thirty-and forty-somethings looking for somewhere quiet and special to meet.

OTHER PLACES
The middle-aged public can go to the exclusive places in the district of Tibidabo, somewhat more expensive but with views of the city. The bars in the calle Balmes and calle Aribau are busier, as are those between the calle Santaló and calle María Cubí in the district of Sant Gervasi. These areas have a mix of restaurants and discotheques, and it is recommended you do not go much earlier than 1 or 2 in the morning as before that there is not much happening.

LIVE MUSIC
At night in the Ensanche (Eixample) it is easy to find live music, especially in La Boîte or Luz de Gas, where they hold concerts every night, or La Tierra and Otto Zutz. The latter is well-known for its modern atmosphere and for being somewhere that you might catch a glimpse of someone famous. London Bar in the Raval and the New York in the Gótico also usually have interesting shows.

DISCOTHEQUES
Hitsbox in the Maremàgnum is one of the best, with its excellent location and the best of 80s music. Worth a mention also are the places on the top floor that always have plenty of atmosphere and where they play all types of music including a fair bit of Spanish pop and rock. Luna Mora in the Puerto Olímpico (Port Olímpic) is another very popular discotheque. If what you want is one of the traditional discotheques, with or without young people, it is best to go to the Paralelo, one of the citys most civilized streets. Here, amidst the numerous neon signs, you will find a great selection of theatres, bars, restaurants, pubs and cabarets.

Fran Ramos Arquiola